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Sweet, Salty, Sour

When I was little I had a brief love affair with radishes. I talked more about it here, but the gist is that I saw some show where one of the characters really liked radishes, and the next thing you know, I saw a beautiful red bunch of them in the store, convinced my parents to buy them for me, ate nothing but radishes for a month, then one day decided I hated them. For years, I wouldn’t go near radishes. It’s not that I really disliked them, they just…weren’t my thing.

Last week at the store though, bunches of French radishes were on sale. They looked so beautiful, so dainty, that I just had to take them. I’d figure out what to do with them later.

frradish

Turns out, the perfect thing to do was pickle them. With a few ingredients I had on hand, I pickled these suckers in no time at all, and they’ve completely reignited my love for radishes. One breakthrough discovery: these babies are un-effing-believable with thickly sliced applewood smoked bacon. I’m already dreaming up ways to make a canape with the pickled radish and bacon (and maybe something creamy? A spicy aioli?) for my next party or cocktail get-together. Beyond bacon, these would be great with just a little salted butter and fresh baguette. So French, so delicious. Recipe after the jump. (more…)

A Sad Announcement

It pains me to announce that after 30 years of business, Tien Hong has closed.

I only discovered this over Memorial Day weekend in late May, on a long overdue visit to Austin (ahem…I may or may not have last made a cameo in the ATX in April of 2007). The family and I were all revved up and ready to get our siu mai on–then, as I went to make reservations, I saw the saddest words one could ever see next to the Tien Hong listing on Yelp: CLOSED.

What? How could this be?, I thought to myself, panic stricken. After all, Tien Hong has always been one of my most cherished memories of Austin, part of an early series of childhood food experiences that have greatly contributed to my current day fascination with gastronomy. A quick Google search revealed that the owner (someone I remember very clearly, for whether I dined at the restaurant at age 8 or 18, he was always shuffling about, making sure everyone was taken care of) decided to retire after a long and admirable haul in the restaurant business. This had apparently all happened sometime in 2008, when I was too busy scarfing down har gau in San Francisco, and too far from Austin to get wind of the closure. As happy as I am for the former owner, I’m super bummed I couldn’t say goodbye to the restaurant.

Delicious Dim Sum

Delicious Dim Sum

All good things must come to an end, I guess, and nothing lasts forever. But where was my family to get its dim sum now? (more…)

Not celery. Celery root.

For as long as I can remember, I have disliked raw celery. When I was a little kid, celery sticks slathered with peanut butter were a common snack at my after school child care program; I’d usually lick up the peanut butter, then throw the celery away. Even sadder were the days when they’d serve celery sticks with Ranch dressing. I’d use the celery stick to spoon the dressing into my mouth, then–of course!–throw away the vegetable. It was always such a strange aversion–there were no other vegetables I disliked, so it wasn’t like I was one of those kids that hated anything green. And I could handle celery cooked, but eating it raw was a punishment worse than death.

“What’s wrong with you?” my grandmother used to say when I’d turn my nose up at it. “It doesn’t taste like anything! It’s like eating crunchy water.”

Oh, Gram. Celery does NOT taste like crunchy water, I’m afraid (that’s a little something called ice!). No, celery tastes like really, really underripe green bell pepper with an overwhelming astringent bitterness laced throughout the skin. It’s just awful.

So about 5 years ago, when I came to San Francisco to visit my uncle over a long weekend, I was a little hesitant whenceleriac_main he took me to a small bistro in Healdsburg, and ordered us a prix fixe menu that included cream of celery root soup. Celery root, also called celeriac, is the huge, bulbous part of the celery plant, lodged firmly beneath the soil and out of sight. Not like it’d ever have a chance, even if it was above ground. As they grow, the celery stalks and leaves tend to get a bit…bushy (Have you ever tried to uproot a mature celery plant? Believe me, it’s tough work). Actually, if we’re going to be completely accurate, I just wiki-ed celeriac, and it turns out the botanical name for that particular part of celery anatomy is hypocotyl:

“a part of a germinating seedling of a seed plant. As the plant embryo grows at germination, it sends out a shoot called a radicle that becomes the primary root and penetrates down into the soil. After emergence of the radicle, the hypocotyl emerges and lifts the growing tip (usually including the seed coat) above the ground, bearing the embryonic leaves (called cotyledons) and the plumule that gives rise to the first true leaves. The hypocotyle is the primary organ of extension of the young plant and develops into the stem.”

In any case, I was very leery of this celery root soup in Healdsburg, at that point having never tasted or even seen a celery root in my life (You see, up until then, I’d avoided anything with the word “celery” in it). But then the soup arrived, piping hot, extraordinarily savory, and completely soul-satisfying. I was reminded of the soup and that revelatory meal when I saw Michael Ruhlman’s post on Cream of Celery Root Soup today on his blog. Hard core food porn in 3, 2, 1: (more…)

No place like home

That post of substance I promised you?  It’s coming this weekend.  It’ll all make sense then.

In the meantime, a quick story:

I spent last weekend in Cleveland, visiting Joe’s family and seeing his hometown for the first time.  Somehow, we’ve let all these years go by without ever making a trip to Ohio, despite the fact that I’ve spent time with his family on numerous other occasions.

As long as I’ve known Joe, he has talked about his mother’s cooking.  Not in that “she’s the best cook in the world” way, but rather individual remembrances of dishes and treats of hers that he liked growing up.  Her fried rice.  The pesto she would make in the summer.  Homemade pizza bagels she’d make for him after school.

He grew up eating mostly Indian food for dinner, and try as I might, no Indian food I’ve ever cooked has satisfied him.  As a culinary student, I once brought home some Indian food we’d cooked with the school’s lone Indian chef.  I had thought the food to be spectacular.  Joe hated it.

“It has no flavor.  It’s not like my mom’s cooking,” he had told me, pushing his food around the plate.

I’ve tried cooking all types of curries, with spices freshly ground and carefully toasted, but to no avail.  No cooking is ever like your mom’s cooking, it’s true. (more…)

25 Things About Food and Me

Undoubtedly you or someone you know has participated in the “25 Random Things About Me” meme that’s been circulating on Facebook the last few weeks.  How could you not have heard about it?  The Times Style section even wrote an article on it, for Pete’s sake!

I’ve kind of refused to participate in this, mostly because I didn’t want random people that I’ve spoken with once in my life to read juicy, intimate details about my life and personality.  Which begs the question…why are they my Facebook friend if we’ve had only a brief, fleeting encounter at a friend of a friend’s house party?  Networking, I guess.

(Note: I just recently figured out how to reconfigure all my privacy settings with the use of Friends lists on Facebook…super nerdy, but valuable insight here if you’re interesting in finding out how your boss can still be your Facebook friend, but not have access to photos of you and the embarrassing things your friends write on your Wall.)

So all that being said, this week on Serious Eats there was a “25 Things About Food and Me” meme that circulated, and I had to admit, this was the kind of listage I could get into!  When it comes to food, I’m willing to divulge any number of facts about myself — not only with Facebook friends, but with the Internet at large!  And I’d rather all my friends did something like this, versus tell me about the name of their first pet, or how they wanted to be a firefighter when they were 5.  I mean, that stuff is interesting too, but I’d much rather know what they’d want their last meal to be.  Right?

Anyway, here are my top 25 random things about food and myself….  (Allow myself to introduce…myself.)  Okay, here we go:

1. I don’t drink milk.  (more…)