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Easy weeknight salmon

Confession time: I used to really hate cooking fish. I’d often come home with some beautiful filet, pan fry it with a bit of olive oil and maybe butter, only to dig in and find I’d seriously misjudged the doneness before taking it out of the pan. Nothing worse! It’s kind of embarrassing to admit that my fish cookery skills were so bad, since I’m pretty sure there was an entire course on that during culinary school.

But after a bit of trial and error, I’ve discovered the easiest, no-fuss way to cook really delicious fish is to roast it. Virtually any fish can be easily cooked in the oven, whether it’s a light, flaky red snapper, a heftier, richer salmon, or even a whole fish like branzino. You can throw it in with nothing more than some slices of lemon, some thyme, and a drizzle of olive oil, or go all out and create a sauce to bake it in (like Ina’s mustard roasted fish I made a ways back).

Last week, I picked up a couple salmon filets, and with a few simple ingredients, was able to create a bright, zippy little marinade/coating/sauce in about five minutes. In another 10, dinner was done. I can’t argue with that!

Weeknight Salmon with Lemon and Chive Sauce

  • 1 whole bunch of chives, rinsed and finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • 2 tbsp lemon juice (about the juice of half a lemon)
  • – kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4-6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (depending on how big your filets are — the final ‘sauce’ should be thin enough to easily mix, but thick enough to spread and not run everywhere.)
  • 2 6-8oz filets of wild salmon. Ask your fish monger to give you similar size pieces, that are cut from the center of the fish, so that one end of your filet does not taper too much into a thin little piece that will overcook! I look for pieces that are less skinny and rectangular and more square(ish).

Preheat your oven to 400°F.

Mix all of the ingredients (except for the salmon, natch) in a small bowl until well combined. Spread on the flesh side of your filets (the skin should be face down in the baking pan), and bake until the fish is cooked through but still tender and flaky, around 10-15 minutes depending on the thickness of the filet. The sauce that has oozed over the sides will be bubbly and smell really good. I served our fish with a garnish of parsley and lacinto kale sauteed in olive oil and garlic!

A little note about purchasing salmon. I personally choose to only buy wild salmon. I saw a news segment on farmed salmon a few years back and it kind of grossed me out. From what I’ve read, the quality of the omega-3s you get from wild salmon (and almost all wild cold-water fish) is better than that of farmed fish. And, wild salmon doesn’t always have to cost more. Look for sockeye or coho varieties, which do not refer to any quality difference, but are an entirely different variety of salmon that I think taste great and are usually much less expensive than king salmon!

Recipe: Warm Farro Salad with Mixed Greens

recipe for warm farro salad

Two weekends ago when I was in LA, we closed out the weekend with a lovely brunch at Square One. Located on the eastern edge of Hollywood (and in the shadow of a very spooky looking Scientology building…no, really), the menu is filled with cure-alls to late night rabble rousing: brioche French toast, eggs benedict, omelets made with chorizo and cheese, and strips of bacon so thick they cost $2 per piece.

Having just spent the weekend doing a lot of good eating and drinking though, I decided to do what I knew my body would appreciate in the long run. I ordered a big salad. On the special menu that day was a warm farro salad, made with arugula, grilled corn, sugar snap peas, avocado, feta cheese and a lemony vinaigrette. Mmm.

Sure enough, the salad was satisfying — maybe not so much as a big, cheesy omelet, but I certainly felt great afterwards. Whole grain, greens and a little dose of cheese make anyone feel like they can take on the world.

Joe and I are always looking for new ways to make a regular old salad interesting (and of course, actually leave us full), so I was inspired to re-create my own version of the Square One salad back here in San Francisco. I inadvertently left the corn out, but with the addition of cherry tomatoes, it was the perfect meal this last Saturday night, one of the warmest nights we’ve had all year.

Warm Farro Salad with Mixed Greens

  • scant 1/4 cup best quality extra virgin olive oil (may need more or less depending on preferences)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1/2 cup semi-pearled farro (look for varieties that cook in around 20 minutes)
  • 2 big handfuls sugar snap peas, washed
  • 1 1/2 cups whole cherry tomatoes, any variety, washed, stemmed and halved
  • 1 large avocado, diced
  • 4 big handfuls of mixed greens or arugula (a little less than you would serve for two people)
  • 2 tsp Dijon mustard
  • Zest and juice of one lemon
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1/2 cup loosely packed basil, washed and roughly chopped
  • – sea or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 3 oz feta cheese (I like the kind that is soaking in brine versus the pre-crumbled variety)

In a medium sized pot, bring several cups of water to a boil. Add in 1 tbsp of the olive oil, a few dashes of sea salt, a sprinkling of freshly ground pepper, and the bay leaf. Pour in the farro and cook for 20 minutes, or as the package directs.

While the farro cooks, chop the snap peas into 1/2 – 3/4-inch pieces. Add to a large mixing bowl. Add in the tomatoes, avocado pieces, and the greens.

In a small mixing bowl, combine the mustard, lemon zest, lemon juice, the red wine vinegar, and the chopped basil, and whisk until combined. Season well with salt and pepper, then pour in the remaining olive oil — more or less depending on your preference for vinaigrette (I tend to like mine with a little tang and punch). Let this sit for at least a few minutes, so that the flavors can marry and the basil can breakdown a little bit.

Drain the farro very well. Pour as much of the vinaigrette as you’d like over the salad, and gently toss. Divide the salad by half and pile it onto two plates or in shallow bowls (be sure to divide up all the garnishes equally!), then top each serving with half of the warm farro. Crumble a bit of the feta cheese on top, and serve.

Recipe: Chicken with tomatoes and artichokes

chicken with artichokes tomato and goat cheese recipe

Summer in San Francisco has lasted all of three days so far, and for the most part, I think the good citizens of the City by the Bay have given up hope on any warm weather until next spring. Fall wardrobes are appearing, and discussions concerning new boots and coats are cropping up all over my workplace. And then, there’s that unmistakable crisp edge in the air that hints of autumn’s approach.

But I’m still holding out. It’s not hard to do when summer produce still abounds at the market. In fact, when I get home from work and can put together a simple meal featuring summer tomatoes and lots of fragrant, freshly torn basil, it’s easy to pretend that it’s 80 degrees outside.

This little recipe is wonderful for a weeknight, since chicken thighs cook quickly and pack so much flavor. A bit of  garlic, some artichokes, and a helping of goat cheese, and it’s not so hard to believe that it’s summer somewhere.

Quick-braised chicken thighs with artichokes, cherry tomatoes and goat cheese

  • 4 cloves of garlic, smashed and skins removed
  • 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • –kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 small yellow onion, julienne
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • 1/2 pint (basket) of cherry tomatoes, washed and stems removed
  • 1 can artichoke hearts packed in water, drained, rinsed and cut into halves
  • 1 – 1 1/2 cups chicken stock
  • –handful of basil leaves, roughly torn
  • –1 oz goat cheese (about 2 tbsp worth)

In a large skillet, heat the garlic cloves and olive oil together over medium high heat until the oil is very fragrant. Season the chicken well with salt and pepper, then brown in the oil on each side; it should take a few minutes per side. Remove the chicken to a plate and set aside.

In the same pan (and without removing any of that delicious garlic oil or chicken drippings!), saute the yellow onion and the tomato paste. Stir together to melt the paste. When the onion is tender and the pan is developing fond on the bottom, add in the cherry tomatoes, the artichoke hearts, and the chicken stock. Gently stir this together with tongs, using one of the artichoke halves to scrape the bottom of the pan to remove the golden bits. Season the entire mixture with salt and pepper.

Lay the chicken back into the pan, reduce heat to medium/medium low, cover (I used aluminum foil) and allow to gently simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the lid, then sprinkle half of the basil over the mixture. Cover again and let cook for another minute or two.

When you’re ready to serve, plate a piece of chicken along with the sauce, then garnish with more fresh basil and a dollop of goat cheese. Quick, easy, delicious.

chicken with artichokes tomato and goat cheese recipe

MacGyver Me This: Pancetta vs. Prosciutto (Recipe included!)

It might be hard to believe, but there was a time in my life when I did not readily consume meat. I didn’t call myself a vegetarian or anything like that. In fact, looking back, my abstention from meat had less to do with me not finding it scrumptious, and everything to do with cutting up too many dead animal carcasses in culinary school, so much so that it completely grossed me out. Well, that and I hadn’t quite gotten over the slaughter videos we watched.

But if there was one thing that could bring me back to the dark, dirty, deliciously wonderful omnivorous side of the culinary world, it was pork. And more specifically, pork products.

It’s funny, when I was little, I hated all manner of pork-related product that wasn’t a chop. My mother had the audacity to try and force feed me Vienna sausages on picnics (which, I still believe, are a cruel, sick joke the food gods are playing on humanity — surely, those beige nuggets that smell suspiciously like cat food aren’t really meant to be eaten?). There was no such thing as mortadella in my world, only Oscar Meyer bologna. And the first time I read the label on the package, I nearly threw up.

Where was I going with all this? Oh right. Pancetta. And prosciutto. Delicious things. Things that I could shove in my maw daily, with reckless abandon.

In college, when I became more interested in food (or at least, more so than I already was), it took me a while to figure out the difference between pancetta and prosciutto. Both were pork, I knew, but that was about it. Maybe you’ve been curious too.

The differences are this: Pancetta is made from pork belly, like bacon. Unlike bacon, it is usually not smoked. Similar to (most) bacon, it is cured. Unlike bacon, it’s most often seen rolled up, then sliced, versus sliced into long strips. You generally purchase it raw, then cook it.

Prosciutto is made from a pig’s leg. When you think prosciutto, think ham. Prosciutto is dry cured, then eaten. It’s not really raw, per se, but you don’t have to cook the meat before eating it. Aside from craftsmanship, species, and terroir, prosciutto and jambon and jamón all kind of mean the same thing etymologically.

Pancetta often has a whole spice box worth of things rubbed into it while it’s being cured: juniper berries, black pepper, chili, fennel, even spices like clove or nutmeg. Prosciutto generally does not have these things.

Prosciutto you’ll often see served in gossamer thin slices, cold or at room temperature. It can also be fried or baked so that it crisps up, and is then used as a garnish. These days, you’ll see prosciutto added to any number of dishes, hot or cold, from salads to pizzas to burgers to pasta.

Pancetta is usually always an element of a dish, meant to deepen flavors, add richness, and — in many instances — provide a touch of luxury.

You’ll notice I’ve added lots of qualifying words to each of these statements: “almost always,” “usually,” etc. That’s because chefs are a crazy lot, and with their creativity, who knows how ingredients could be utilized!

Last weekend, I made baked trout for dinner and served it alongside some quick-braised kale with pancetta. This recipe is a great way to get some dark green vegetation into your meal — especially if you went out to eat five nights in a row, like SOME people around here.

Quick-braised kale with pancetta

  • 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
  • 2 cloves of garlic, cut in half
  • 1/4-1/2 cup diced pancetta (I asked my deli to give me one slice of pancetta that was 1/2″ thick, and this was the perfect amount)
  • 1 bunch of kale, chopped into large pieces (you can use curly leaf or cavalo nero — whatever is available)
  • 1/2-1 cup of water
  • juice of half a lemon
  • 1 tsp to 1 tbsp granulated sugar
  • –kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot, combine the olive oil, red pepper flakes, garlic and the pancetta. Heat over medium, allowing the seasonings to infuse the oil. The pancetta should begin to sizzle, render its fat, and turn golden.

Add in all of the kale. The pot may look very full at first, but trust me, this will cook down a lot. Season the leaves well with salt and pepper.

Pour in 1/2 cup of water, the lemon juice and 1 tsp of sugar. Stir to combine, being sure to fold the pancetta bits over the leaves, so they all get coated in the flavored oil. Reduce heat to medium low and cook gently until the leaves have all wilted. If you need a little more water, pour it on in.

Taste one of the leaves, and decide whether you like the balance of flavors. Kale can be bitter (and especially so since I don’t remove the inner stalks of the leaves), so the key is to balance it out with acidity (sour) and sugar (sweet). Add more lemon or sugar as needed — or even salt, if you think that’s what your taste buds will like.

Serve hot and enjoy.

Recipe: Risotto with asparagus, fresh shelling peas and lemon

This is a post with some seriously good eats. The not so serious part? It’s extremely easy to make, as long as you carve out some time for yourself on a weekend evening, and are totally, 100% committed to putting a lot of love into your food. If you can manage these first two requirements, you can give the gift of risotto to someone special in your life. Even if it’s just yourself.

Back story With a brief warm spell we had last week, a few springtime favorites made an appearance at the market near my house on Saturday: verdant, crisp asparagus spears. Knobbly, plump pea pods. I feel more sprightly just thinking about it. It was a no-brainer to use both in whatever I’d be cooking.

Since Joe was leaving the next afternoon, a big bowl full of risotto love seemed to be the thing that would provide both an appropriate sendoff, and remind him that there’s something (someone?) good to come home to when it’s all said and done.

To throw in an undertone of earthiness with all the vegetal, green flavors, I picked up a few cremini mushrooms to add into the mix. Then, to heighten and brighten all the flavors, lemon zest proved the ticket. Are you ready to see how it all came together? Away we go! (more…)