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10 Things to Do with Tomatoes

There are a few ingredients in my kitchen that I put in basically everything. Tomatoes are definitely one. They’re just so versatile! A few tomatoes — be it from the vine or in cherry form — and a couple other basics and you’re guaranteed a decently good meal. I got to thinking about all the things you can do with tomatoes and decided to round up my top ten faves. Summer’s on the horizon — you can bet I’ll be doing every single one of these in a few short months. (more…)

Recipe: Butternut Squash Soup

Even with boots, chilly weather, and blog posts about pumpkins, to me, it’s not officially fall until I make a batch of butternut squash soup. For one thing, it’s easy, filling, and oh-so healthy. But the soup’s gorgeous, saturated orange color? The way it warms you from the inside out? Fall. Totally fall.

Butternut squash soup is great in that it’s simple on its own, but you can zhush it up with garnishes and other add-ins to make it fancier. It’s also the perfect thing if you’re looking for a vegan/vegetarian friendly recipe — there’s definitely no rule that says you have to include chicken stock or cream in it!

Below is a version I made on Monday night to bring for lunches throughout the week. I like making my soup with something to add just a touch of sweetness. This time, instead of apples, I used two pears that were on their last leg. Along with a sweet potato and some regular potatoes to help thicken things up, this soup was SO satisfying. Feeling fancy? You could dress it up with a dollop of crème fraîche, or swirl some cream right into the soup once you’ve heated it. I’m guessing a garnish of chives and crumbled bacon would also not be horrible. I’ve tried butternut squash soup with toasted hulled pumpkin seeds on top, too — it’s really good!

Simple Butternut Squash Soup
Serves 8 (at least)

1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1 medium sized butternut, peeled and diced
–kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 tsp dried thyme, or 1 tbsp if you are using fresh
1 dried bay leaf
2 Bosc peers, peeled, cored and roughly chopped (could substitute apples, too)
1 large orange sweet potato, peeled and diced
2 large red potatoes, peeled and diced (you could also substitute Yukon gold or russet — whatever you have)
2 quarts vegetable stock

In a large heavy bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Once hot, add in the onion and the diced squash, then season well with salt and pepper. Stir and let sweat, until the onions are softened and beginning to turn translucent. Pour in the white wine and stir. Add in the thyme, the bay leaf, the pears, the potatoes and the stock. Gently stir, and season well with salt and pepper.

Bring to a simmer and let cook for half an hour, or until the largest pieces of potato or squash are very tender. Remove the bay leaf. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until it is velvety smooth. If you don’t have an immersion blender, you can add batches of the soup to a blender and process. Be careful not to add too much; work in small batches so as not to accidentally burn yourself. Taste the pureed soup and adjust the seasonings.

Serve hot with the garnishes of your choice.

Also, here’s a quick tutorial on how to cut up a butternut squash. No need to be intimidated by their strange shape and hard skin!

1. Of all the winter squashes, I think butternuts have the thinnest skin. I used to cut away the skin with a knife, but I hated how much squash I’d lose (and I almost chopped off my finger a time or two). A few years ago when I was recipe testing for a local newspaper, a chef showed me how I could just peel it with a sturdy vegetable peeler (I like the Good Grips one from OXO), and I’ve never looked back. It’s much safer, and you get more squash that way. You can also cut the squash in half first (see below) if it’s easier for you to peel it this way.

2. Once you’ve peeled the butternut, cut it crosswise where the base of the squash starts to balloon or bell out. This is approximately where the seeds are.

3. Cut both pieces in half; this will make them more manageable to cut down further. Use a spoon to scoop the seeds out and discard any of the stringy pulp.

4. If you’re cubing the squash like I was for the soup, cut the longer part into planks, then into sticks, then into cubes. You can cut the round part of the squash into half circles, then dice from there.

Presto! Your squash is all cut up and ready to go, and you didn’t slice off your hand trying to deal with it.

Confit d’ail

Saturday night, home from the grocery store and happily settling in to a re-stocked kitchen, I suddenly realized I had four count ‘em FOUR heads of garlic. Joe and I love to cook with garlic, but getting through four bulbs would take a while, by which time they’d probably dry out.

My solution? I made garlic confit. Adapted from Thomas Keller’s Bouchon cookbook, garlic confit is a really fancy way of saying garlic gently cooked in oil. The end result are cloves so soft you can spread them on baguette, or incorporate them into mashed potatoes, or mix with butter and smear under the skin of a chicken before roasting. The possibilities are endless, really. The oil can be used too, any place that you’d normally use olive oil or vegetable oil (think amped up veggie sautés!). And it’s super easy to make.

To start, I used one and a half bulbs of garlic, and peeled all the cloves. This was the most labor intensive part, but only took ten minutes or so. You’re looking for around 20-25 cloves total.

After all the cloves are peeled, you’ll want to use a paring knife to slice off the rough end of the clove, which you can see on the left.

I placed all the cloves in a small saucier, then covered them with canola oil. Be sure all the cloves are completely submerged in oil — you don’t want the oil only reaching half way up the cloves.

Turn the heat to low, until little bubbles start to form around the cloves. The oil should not appear to boil, but gentle bubbles coming up is fine. The reason the cloves shouldn’t fry is that they will brown too quickly and may even burn. When that happens, the outside cooks faster than the inside, so they don’t get to that soft, smearable state.

Cook the cloves in the oil for about half an hour, or until you can easily pierce one of the large cloves with the paring knife, and the clove feels very soft.

Let the oil and the cloves cool completely, then transfer to a storage container. I poked at my cloves a lot during the cooking process, and also stirred a bit, which is why I think you see some garlic residue on the surface here. It didn’t bother me, but if you wanted, you could always strain this through cheesecloth. You can keep this in the fridge for several weeks!

Homemade sweet cream butter

In college, Joe and I had a housemate whose then-girlfriend would stay over on weekends, and wake up each Sunday and make him fresh cinnamon muffins. Never one to have a sweet tooth and certainly NOT a sucker for baked goods, there was still something about that warm, comforting aroma on the weekends that really resonated with Joe. Almost immediately after we moved to San Francisco, he began wanting muffins for breakfast each weekend.

It took me a few months to perfect, but I finally came up with a recipe that was foolproof, every single time. The muffins have lots of cinnamon in them, brown sugar, and even little tiny dices of apple. They’re Joe’s absolute favorite (he won’t hear of any other type of fruit in the muffin save apple). And in his mind, they’re also not complete without a little pat of butter on them, oozing and melting over the sides when the muffin is fresh from the oven.

Which is how we found ourselves in a DEFCON 1 situation this last Sunday.

I had made muffins. They were sitting on top of the stove cooling. Joe’s coffee had been freshly French pressed. Plates were laid out. And then we went to get the butter…and realized we were out.

This is not a post giving you my muffin recipe (though I probably should at some point). This is a post about how to make butter at home. It’s pretty much the easiest thing in the world if you have some heavy whipping cream, five minutes, and shoulder muscles. Try it!

Step 1 – Pour the cream into a glass bowl. (more…)

The well-stocked kitchen (with updates!)

Written last fall, I consider this a primer of everything one should have on hand in the kitchen if they like to cook simple, satisfying foods that can incorporate lots of vegetables and tend to have either a French, Italian or Mediterranean approach to them. Amendments and additions are in blue.


As promised in Tuesday’s episode, here is a list of things I like to have on hand at all times in both fridge, freezer and pantry. If I’m out of several of these, I know it’s time to get my butt to the store, pronto. See the list:

Freezer

  • Homemade Chicken Stock: Use washed takeout containers to freeze your stock in different sizes. Most takeout containers come in either quart or pint sizes, so you’ll have a good idea of how much liquid is in each (remember: a quart is 4 cups; a pint is 2). You can also freeze stock in ice cube trays, then store the cubes in a ziptop bag. Cubes of stock come in handy when making up quick pan sauces.
  • Pine nuts — or any kind of nut for that matter. Walnuts, hazelnuts, pecans. They can all make yummy additions to salads or pastas. Pine nuts are terrific to keep around to add to herb pestos, or frittatas. Buy raw nuts when they’re on sale, then keep them in the freezer. They’ll last longer that way. (Store ‘em in whatever leftover takeout containers you still have after stock making!)
  • Bacon — I like to buy a pound or two of good quality applewood smoked bacon at a time. Then, I lay the strips out next to one another on parchment, fold the whole thing up, and stick it in a gallon size zip top bag. Whenever I need a bit of bacon (for breakfasts, for pasta carbonara, or just to snack on), I’ll put out as many slices as I need and cook them up. Easy. (more…)